How to Get Rid of Mice

Mice are one of the most common household pests in the UK, and once they are established inside your home, they rarely leave voluntarily. Their ability to squeeze through gaps as small as 6mm, breed rapidly, and survive on tiny amounts of food makes them exceptionally difficult to eliminate without a structured approach.

This guide walks you through every method available — from DIY traps and deterrents to professional treatment and long-term proofing — so you can choose the right approach for your situation.

Published: 8 March 2026

Getting Rid of Mice — Step by Step

Step 1: Confirm You Have Mice — Before setting traps or calling a pest controller, confirm that mice are the problem. Check for the classic signs: small, dark droppings (3-8mm, rice-shaped), gnaw marks on food packaging and woodwork, scratching noises at night, and grease marks along skirting boards. Our signs of mice guide covers every indicator in detail.

It is also important to determine whether you are dealing with mice or rats, as treatment approaches differ. Mouse droppings are much smaller than rat droppings, and mice tend to leave droppings scattered widely rather than in concentrated piles. Our rats vs mice comparison explains the key differences.

Step 2: Cut Off Their Food Supply — Mice can survive on as little as 3 grams of food per day. They are opportunistic omnivores that will eat cereals, grains, chocolate, peanut butter, pet food, bird seed, and even candle wax. Eliminating food sources is the single most important step you can take.

Store all dry food in glass or metal containers — mice chew straight through plastic and cardboard. Sweep floors daily, wipe down kitchen surfaces before bed, and never leave dirty dishes overnight. Empty kitchen bins regularly and ensure outdoor bins have tight-fitting lids.

Do not forget pet food. Bowls of dog or cat food left out overnight are one of the most common attractants. Feed pets at set times and remove uneaten food immediately.

Step 3: DIY Traps and Bait — Snap traps remain the most effective DIY method. Place them perpendicular to walls with the trigger end touching the skirting board — mice run along edges, not through open spaces. Use peanut butter, chocolate spread, or nesting material (cotton wool) as bait. Set at least 6 to 10 traps for a single mouse; far more for an established problem.

Check traps daily and re-bait as needed. If traps are not catching after 2 to 3 days, reposition them — mice may be using different routes. Common high-traffic areas include behind the fridge, under the oven, inside the airing cupboard, and along loft joists.

Avoid relying solely on poison bait in domestic settings. Mice may die in inaccessible locations — inside wall cavities or under floorboards — causing severe odour problems for weeks. If you do use bait, always use tamper-resistant bait stations to protect children and pets. Our DIY mouse control products guide reviews the most effective options.

Step 4: Seal Entry Points (Proofing) — Traps and bait deal with mice already inside, but proofing stops new ones entering. This is the step most people skip, and it is the reason mice keep coming back. Inspect the full perimeter of your property for gaps, paying close attention to where pipes, cables, and vents penetrate external walls.

Seal gaps with steel wool packed tightly into the hole, then cover with caulk or cement. Mice cannot chew through steel wool. Fit bristle strip draught excluders to the bottom of external doors, and ensure air bricks are fitted with mouse-proof mesh.

Common entry points include gaps around boiler flue pipes, where gas and water mains enter the building, underneath garage doors, around soil pipe connections, and where extension roofs meet the main wall. Our mouse deterrent guide covers proofing methods in full detail.

Step 5: When to Call a Professional — DIY methods are effective for catching the occasional mouse that wanders in. However, if you are finding droppings in multiple rooms, hearing scratching in walls or ceilings, or traps are catching mice but the problem continues, you have an established colony that requires professional intervention.

Professional pest controllers use commercial-grade rodenticides in secure bait stations, professional tracking dust to map routes through wall cavities, and have the expertise to locate and seal entry points that homeowners typically miss. A professional also ensures treatment is carried out safely, especially in homes with children and pets.

At BuzzKill, our mice treatment includes a full property survey, targeted baiting and trapping, and proofing recommendations — typically resolving infestations within 2 to 3 visits. See our mice treatment service page for full details and pricing.

Frequently Asked Questions